I had fairly high expectations for the Arbutus Grill, what with their marketing identifying them as the hot new and high-end destination for Victoria diners looking for a drive to the country. While I'm sure the experience would be more impressive in the summer when I could appreciate the location of the hotel and restaurant, in the pitch dark of February the restaurant held its own with a creative menu and above-average service.

As a promotion, Dine Around experiences can be tainted by over-burdened staff and lacklustre menu efforts. The Brentwood Bay Lodge made neither of these mistakes. The menu was creative and we felt that the dinning experience was the same as if we had not been ordering the promotional menu.

We were greeted as we walked in the door, before we had even stopped walking. The host recognized our reservation without consulting his manifest. Our server/sommelier Otta had perfect timing throughout the evening, combined with demure but familiar service.

The wine list is notable for its comprehensive selection of BC wines. There is no need to study the whole list, if what you'd like is something local. It's common to see lots of BC representation on wine lists, but this list stood out for its relationship to the menu as a whole -- the sense of pairing was strong. It was interesting to see some slightly unusual and vintage BC wines.

The food, while not faultless, met my Dine Around criteria of being reflective of the regular menu, while highlighting the potential of the kitchen. I started with the Roasted Parsnip and Potato Soup. It was a good soup with great flavour that exceeded the descriptor.  Ryan had the Arbutus Gathered Greens with Little Qualicum feta and an apple vinaigrette. A nice salad, it was simple but satisfying. Our other guests Angie and Debbie had the goat cheese tartlet  with spinach and endive salad and bacon vinaigrette. The tartlet was lovely, but the ladies thought the bacon vinaigrette was a bit strong. While I enjoyed my taste, I agree that the strong meat flavour would not agree with everyone's palate.

For our mains Debbie and I had the braised beef short rib
 with potato puree and braising jus. A huge serving, they certainly could have gotten away with serving a little less. The beef however, was wonderfully tender, braised past the point of requiring a knife. Angie and Ryan both had the seared spring salmon with braised leeks and a veal-stock reduction. The salmon was nice and crispy and the veal reduction powerfully flavoured and sticky. A wonderful combination; I love the classic combination of veal stock with anything and everything. Screw the fussy sensibilities of fish with fish and the fear of offending the diner who selects fish because they're afraid of the meat.

Debbie and I were fairly full after our beef main, so selected the sorbet and ice cream dessert. Ryan and Angie, in contrast had room for the crème brulée and apple tart respectively.  I thought they both might do a little dance, they were so happy with their desserts. Ryan described  his tart as "little rays of sunshine" and when speaking about Angie's crème brulee and accompanying cookie, as "the perfect combination of silky-smooth and crunchy." What can you say, the man loves his sweets.

If I can point out a petty but glaring oversight, I have to note the beautiful washrooms and the tacky paper hand towels. A washroom as nice as that one demands cloth towels.

Overall a lovely experience, leaving me with hopes of returning when I can see the view.

Value of Food: 84/100 (a very good Dine Around menu, would have liked more of the lovely sauces with the main courses)

Quality of Food: 87/100  

Service: 91/100 (totally professional without any uptightness)

Ambiance: 85/100 (west coast contemporary)

Wine and beer list: 87/100  (above average, has it's strengths in interesting BC vintages)

  Reviewed: February 24, 2006