New to the Victoria restaurant scene, Cafe Ceylon has taken on quite a challenge for itself -- attempting to convert a previously low-end location into something somewhat sophisticated, as well as presenting a style of cuisine that isn't well represented in this market.

From an ambiance and location perspective they've done fairly well. The space is much nicer than it had been, with an Asian theme that isn't too kitschy. They could do a little more at the restaurant design level, but generally it's a good start for a new business.

The cuisine is a little trickier to pin down. My dinner-mate Ryan and I both agreed that the Sri Lankan / Pan Asian restaurant description does not accurately describe the menu. While there are Sri Lankan dishes and the chef/owner is Sri Lankan herself, I wouldn't go to Cafe Ceylon expecting Sri Lankan food.  Similarly, while the menu does represent various Asian cuisines, in order to justify pan-Asian, I'd expect to see at least some Northern and Eastern Asian influence. I would describe it as South Asian fusion. As well, they're clearly going for an upscale approach to South Asian dining - the prices are high and the presentations attractive and thoughtful.  That said, they're holding back from the fine dining concept - the portions are large and ingredient quality is good, but should be higher if they were going for fine dining. They're in the same conceptual ball park as Vij's in Vancouver, a true fine-dining South Asian restaurant, but need to refine a number of things before they can compete in that league of culinary accomplishment.

On this evening Ryan and I started with the Jade and Coral Prawns ($10.95) and the beet salad ($10.95). The prawns were served skewered with broccoli. The presentation was lovely and the prawns plump and fresh tasting. The approach here seemed to be to highlight the freshness of the seafood without a lot of interference from other flavours. An unusual approach in South Asian cuisines known for heavy flavours, the idea is one I respect . However, I thought the dish was a little bland. The simple presentation of the prawns would have been better contrasted with a sharper garnish, and while the broccoli looked good, the texture combination was a little rough around the edges. The beet salad was great. A tower of beet, goat cheese, onion and tomato, the presentation was attractive and the flavours were good. That said, I failed to make the connection between this dish and the South Asian theme. Had there been one, I would have liked to seen it noted in the menu.

For his main, Ryan had the Burmese-style beef ($21.95). I laughed when I saw the dish, because in Burma (Myanmar) I experienced some of the blandest food in South-East Asia. Happily, Ryan's beef had the characteristic combination of Indian/Thai flavours that Burmese cuisine is known for, but with a more intense flavour than I had experienced. Garnished with an onion salad and rice, this dish I liked.

I had the traditional Sri Lankan chicken dinner ($24.95). An elaborate spread of chicken served in a fairly light curry sauce, with dhal, rice, green beans, papadum, raita and chutney. It was all tasty and the presentation good, but I could have handled a heavier seasoning and a garnish that added heat to the dish. Also, the chicken used for the curry was breast - I know everyone likes chicken breast, but I find it dries out too easily when stewed. I think this dish would be better with darker meat.

Ryan, as always, insisted on dessert. I was stuffed, but agreed to have a taste. He ordered the Honeymoon Suite ($7.95), a yogurt concoction with pistachio. It was quite sweet, but had a nice and interesting combination of flavours.

Further to my earlier comments about a fine-dining concept not fully executed, the wine and beverage list is poor. I've seen worse and while characteristic of a regular South Asian restaurant, if they're going for a fine-dining crowd, they're going to have to get at least a little more extensive wine selection, with better menu pairing potential.

Generally, I think Cafe Ceylon has some real potential as an alternative to the standard South Asian dining experience in Victoria. There's a genuine effort at creativity and innovation, quality of ingredients is good, and presentation is top-notch. I would look at increased intensity of flavours, more elegant portions and use of more local ingredients (and noting them on the menu).

Value of food 71/100

Quality of food 78/100

Wine and beverage list 57/100

Ambiance 76/100

Service 80/100

Average 72/100

reviewed June 1, 2006

Some times people don't appreciate my reviews. Albeit with room for improvement, I enjoyed Cafe Ceylon and intended this review to be an endorsement for people to give it a try. Co-owner Ken Bailey didn't see it that way.  All opinions have value, so to be fair, we'll hear him out.

Dear Miss Piggy,

I've waited quite some time before responding to your "review" or critique of my and my wife's restaurant as I wanted to see some other thoughts by others just to see for myself how far off the mark you were with your assessment.

As we recently won the distinction of having the best noodle bowl on Vancouver Island (popular vote) and something, I might add, that you know nothing about since you made one late evening visit to Cafe Ceylon before promulgating your
diatribe and we also received a 5 star rating from reviewer Pam Grant in December 14th's Go section of the TC, I suggest that you and your sniggering friend, Ryan, should
find something else to do to while away your time. A restaurant reviewer you are definitely not. Knowledgable
about Sri Lankan and other Asian influenced food you certainly are not and fair minded you undoubtedly are not. Next time you decide to critique a restaurant please go more
than once (lunch and dinner) and get yourself up from your seat and take a look around a bit before you decide that you know enough to comment on what that restaurant's intentions are or see fit to make idiotic comparisons with much larger
and different restaurants on the mainland. Maybe you should even consider having a chat with the people who are
operating the place rather than jumping to all sorts of conclusions.

There, I've had my say. I will conclude by saying that I intend to encourage as many of the patrons of Cafe Ceylon who absolutely love our food and our place to read your pathetic attempt and then to let you know how wrong you were,

Ken Bailey

In response:

Dear Sir,

I enjoyed Cafe Ceylon and often encourage people to visit, it's unfortunate that you didn't interpret my review as such. I admire your undertaking and wanted my review to be a constructive analysis for your benefit. I'm disappointed by your hurtful comments and attempts to insult me personally. I paid your restaurants as many, if not more compliments as I did make criticisms and ultimately recommended my readers visit. Misunderstandings happen - I would have thought that being compared to one of the most exceptional restaurants on the west coast, would have been interpreted as complimentary - that's how I intended it. I do however, understand that restaurateurs, who clearly put their hearts into their ventures can feel sensitive to criticism - it would be hard not to.
 
I would like to be able to visit all restaurants multiple times, but due to financial and time restrictions, I have to be selective. If a restaurant notably under performs at the time of my visit, I will return. It has also come to my attention that new restaurant in particular deserve a second visit. Since writing your review, I have amended my policy to better accommodate new restaurants and their inevitable growing pains.  I now write a pre-review on the first visit, and then return a few months later for a full review. I'm trying to address the need to re-view new restaurants like yours, who were reviewed prior to this policy change. I had planned to re-visit your establishment and update the review, but having endorsed your restaurant with a positive review, Cafe Ceylon did not seem like an urgent case.

As for approaching owners for further information - I try to avoid it and if it happens unintentionally, I feel obliged to divulge it to my readers. It's very difficult to write a critical review once a passionate owner has engaged you. Similarly, the goal is to have an 'everyman' experience for the purpose of reviewing. Approaching staff with questions, other than those who approach you as part of regular service, changes the experience fundamentally. I do look for background information, as it makes for a more interesting review, but am limited to what a restaurant has made publicly available. In your case, I searched the web, read the EAT story, spoke to a couple former colleagues of your wife and drew from my own experiences with the style of cuisine and the time I've spent in South and SouthEast Asia. If we didn't understand the concept the way you intended, it wasn't for a lack of interest.

I know you don't think so, but my goal in these reviews is to contribute in a positive way to the industry, by providing feedback to restaurateurs and encouraging consumers to dine out. We had a comfortable evening in your restaurant and enjoyed our food - yes, I found some room for improvement, there always is, but for a new restaurant in a challenging location, I thought you were doing extremely well. I'm disappointed that you didn't read our review that way, but if it's any consolation, I know that many of our readers have. It's not unusual for consumers to provide feedback after taking my recommendations and I have received feedback from people who visited Cafe Ceylon.

I'm not sure what else I can say to make you feel better about my review, but I am sorry for the misunderstanding.

Good luck with Cafe Ceylon,

Christabel Padmore