I'd never been to the Fireside Grill and to be perfectly honest, I always thought it was a pub, or something like it. I was pleased to discover it's actually a fairly sophisticated restaurant. Their marketing campaign, that depicts them as a sterile, chain-style restaurant, does an injustice to a lovely room and talented kitchen.

The former residence of the Matlwoods (also of the Maltwood Gallery at UVic), the restaurant is housed in the old ballroom. Tudor style beams and forty foot ceilings, banked by fireplaces, it's nothing short of beautiful. That said, I thought they could use some screens to make a slightly more intimate atmosphere, when they're not using all 175 seats.

Our server was an accommodating and jovial chap and even seemed to know and have opinions on the menu. The wine list is acceptable, with lots of local options, but I was disappointed that the selections weren't a little more creative and by the complete lack of vintages. Patty was however, happy with several microbrew options and I noted a complete cocktail and digestif menu.

The menu isn't wild and crazy, as I imagine they're regular clientele isn't either, but I was impressed that even their most mundane dishes had little twists - like the calamari with puttanesca dip ($9.5), not a mind blowing idea, but I appreciate the attempt at variation. Similarly, their 'grill' menu looks like a standard list of steaks and chops, but on closer examination includes several different starch options like raviolis, griddle cakes and gratins, as well as a variety of toppings and sauces. I didn't have an opportunity to try them, but I like that they're making an effort to mix it up.

We started with the oyster and duck trios, (both $10.99). Apparently all house made, my duck included a terrine, a ravioli and a sausage. The portion was generous without being silly and I was pleased to see all three items served with it's own unique condiment. Good flavour and a successful trio.

Patty's oysters were tasty, but lacked the same level of variation. A oyster shooter in gazpacho, a mini oyster burger and a cajun fried oyster - all tasty, I especially liked the gazpacho, but I thought the burger and the fried oyster were a little too similar for the trio concept. Nevertheless, the oysters were fresh and again, well complimented with condiments.

For our main, we split the tuna crostoso ($22.99). I'm not usually a big fan of tuna, if only because the presentation is often boring, but I liked this one. Fresh, rare seared tuna, the ginger vinaigrette and wasabi cream were both effective sauces for a chronically underdressed fish. The carrot ribbon and arugula salad was fresh as well and well balanced with the rest of the dish. The sticky rice griddle cake wasn't terribly exciting, but it was a nice change from run of the mill starches. Patty did locate a piece of trim that should have been removed from his fish, but then again the man trims meat and fish for a living, so he's got a better eye than most.

We don't often eat dessert, but the server sold us on the strawberry soup with pana cotta, one of the options on the sampler menu ($8.99). I'm a fan of sampler menus, so this was another bonus. In addition to the soup, we selected the sticky toffee pudding and the sabayon tart. All yummy, the server was correct, the soup was the winner.

Not a cheap dinner, the prices seemed in line with the food costs, kitchen labour, service and ambiance. My only criticism is why I knew so little about this restaurant before. They must change they're marketing approach - it's a mixed message and doesn't accurately reflect the style of dining. Not only were we fooled, but while we were eating we watched another couple arrive, look confused, inquire as to where the pub was and shortly thereafter leave disappointed.

value of food 84/100

quality of food 81/100

wine and beverage 70/100

service 81/00

ambiance 77/100

average 79/100

reviewed Nov 7, 06