Review Update - 31/08/07

Over a year after our first review, we returned last night to investigate developments at the Heron Rock.

We were a little taken aback upon arrival. It was packed and people were partying - a complete 180 from the last time we were here. Our next door tablemates explained that the James Bay Athletic Club were in the house, as they often are after home games around the corner. We weren't getting any service and normally I would have walked out, but our neighbours were bestowing so much praise upon the food and staff, that we decided to give it a few more minutes.

Finally, a server arrived. Instead of pretending like nothing was wrong, we identified our facial expressions correctly, as 'no one has talked to you, have they?'  The server efficiently took all of our order, answered a couple of questions, cheered us up and renewed our confidence. Most importantly, he came back with our cocktails right away and kindly made mine a double. I felt well placated.

Our first course arrived, and with a nod to our server the bottle of wine came right along. The 'pick your own plate' crostini platter was good quality - we went for the chevre noir, baby dills and chicken liver mousse ($10). I would have preferred a smoother mousses, but it tasted good and the livers had been treated properly to remove the raunchy livery flavour you get in lazy executions of this dish.

For our mains Patty had the steak frites ($23) and I had the sablefish ($22). My fish was beautifully seared and well portioned. Served on top of a white bean concoction. I remarked to Patty, that it was the same way he makes his white bean ragout. Most impressively, it was served with kale - I'm not really a fan of kale, despite how 'healthy' it is, but this tasted great. I imagine the chef cooked the 'healthy' right out of it.

Patty's steak was a triumph. An 8 oz striploin, with shoestring fries, aioli and a balsamic vinegar and shallot butter. The steak was cooked perfectly and the butter was strongly flavoured - the butter would even have been overpowering had it not been so tasty and well paired. I was super-happy about the house emulsified aioli. Wow - this is one of those things that makes all the difference to me. Fluffy and garlicky without a hint of modified starch. We make it at home, but you don't usually get it in restaurants, unless someone forgot to re-order mayo.

At this point in the meal, we found out that our server was Andrew Moffat the owner. Well, that explains a lot -  in a good way. It's always a better experience to be served by the owner. As Patty and I are coming to learn ourselves, it's a lot of work to be an owner and operator, but it pays off in quality service and product. We also hope, and I think our experience at Heron Rock helped us to understand, that having a owner, or someone personally vested in the business at your service, makes for a more forgiving customer.

We saw a lot of our own business in the Heron Rock and their growth since our last visit. There are a few kinks, but their growth and development is visible in the space, service and menu. The food is great and they make you feel comfortable. I hope we can pull it off as well.  

(That said, if it's Saturday night and you're looking for peace and quiet, you might want to call ahead and see if there was a JBA home game.)