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Review Update -
December 20, 2007
The Rosemeade has undergone a lot of changes over the past couple
years, including ownership changes and the loss of several key and
uber-talented staff people.
I've visited several times during these changes and all in all
the food will always be fantastic and innovative as long Richard
Luttman is in the kitchen. That said, some of glitter is gone with
competent, but not less exceptional front of house staffing.
The Rosemeade will easily retain position in my top three food
destinations and maybe even number one for food creativity, but
they've lost much of the energy that previously existed in their
front of house.
Value
of Food: 92/100
Quality of Food: 98/100
Service: 85/10
Ambiance: 86/10
Wine List: 87/10
average: 89/100
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We love going to the Rosemeade. There is no place
else in town where we so consistently receive exceptional service, value
and culinary accomplishment. Sure, they've gotten to know us a bit and
that contributes at least to the level of service, but after some
discussion and observation of other tables we concluded that we weren't
having a unique experience.
I am hard pressed to find anything worthy of
criticising at the Rosemeade, so when Patty and I arrived to find the
front desk empty, I was relieved to know that I would have at least one,
albeit minor complaint. Shortly after, our server, Leslie, whipped past
us with some orders and enthusiastically directed us to the fireplace
lounge, until she could provide us with her full attention. She returned
a couple of minutes later with two glasses of sparkling wine. That's a
welcome! We enjoyed our drinks at the fireplace and chatted about the
wine list.
When we finished our drinks, Leslie took us to our
table, returning a few moments later to take our appetizer orders. We
assigned her the task of pairing the wine. She returned with a flight of
wine for us to sample. The winner, no doubt, was the
Joie - A Noble Blend.
I love the opportunity to try new wines and Leslie had all the anecdotes
to go with it.
My veal loin carpaccio ($15) arrived accompanied by
a roasted salsify and parsley salad, raw tuna-olive dressing. I'd never
had veal carpaccio before, but among carpaccios, it was maybe the
best I'd ever had. I especially liked the balance of the dressing, too
often I find the aioli-style dressings that accompany carpaccio to be
overwhelming. The tuna-olive dressing was extremely flavourful with the
creaminess of the emulsion and the salt of anchovies - serving to
compliment, not dominate the meat. I'd never even heard of salsify (a
lot like celeriac), but it made a nice fresh accompaniment.
Patty started with the pea soup with ham hock
perogy. The perogy was ingenious, with the saltiness of the ham being
the perfect compliment for the freshness of the pea. It's bright green
colour was testament to the exceptional pea flavour - it was like eating
a fresh pea - but better.
For our mains I had black pepper dusted venison
loin, horseradish gnocchi, dried vine fruit and verjus sauce ($30). The
venison was perfectly cooked and I was delighted by the strong
horseradish flavour of the gnocchi. Patty had the poached Alberta beef
tenderloin, Roquefort whipped potato, oxtail and onion broth with
pickled beet salad ($30). We didn't know what to expect with the
poaching of the beef and the effect was subtle in execution. Patty
seemed startled by how strong the cheese flavour was in the potato. He
enjoyed it and appreciated the balsy'ness of the chef. He was also
delighted with the oxtail, commenting on the attention to detail and
prep time required. Leslie paired the main courses with the
Vasse
Felix Shiraz - a very indulgent wine, with big legs and tonnes of
fruit, it served our red meat well.
For dessert we shared a trio - panna cotto, rice
pudding and fennel cake. The fennel cake was interesting, but the
pudding took the prize with perfect rice doneness. The portioning
of all the courses was great, leaving us full, but not uncomfortably so.
As always, we stumbled away from the Rosemeade high
on culinary delight. I'm always shocked that the Rosemeade isn't
an expensive restaurant. Sure, it's not cheap, but you'll easily spend
the same amount in an average downtown restaurant for a fraction of the
quality. Truly a special occasion restaurant, if you ate here all the
time, it would spoil you irreconcilably.
Also worth noting, The Rosemeade takes
reservations by
OpenTable
Value
of Food: 98/100
Quality of Food: 96/100
Service: 94/10
Ambiance: 94/10
Wine and Beverage List: 89/10
(great list - great wine knowledge and service - comes up a little short
on beer and spirits )
Average 94/100
Reviewed: April 3 2006
Review
August 11 2005
I'm sold.
I had a favourite restaurant in Victoria, but I
think I may have changed my mind (maybe not, but darn
close). I just came home from an evening at the Rosemeade and am in a
state of culinary ecstasy.
I was a little spoiled have gone
with a regular patron (Ryan) who demands
a certain degree of special treatment (liberal dosage of alcohol). That
said, both the food and service were exceptional. Both our waiter and
manager gave us great food and wine recommendation in a very congenial
fashion. They were right on the mark in all respects. I thought it was
especially funny, when our waiter Chad, showed up with our wine glasses
for our mains -- before we'd selected the wine - he already had
something in mind. I appreciated his assertiveness, usually I wouldn't -
but he had confidence.
The whole meal demanded my
utmost attention with an innovative variety of flavours and
accompaniments. Those efforts were complimented by attention to portion
size, thereby leaving me feeling satisfied, but not overwhelmed after
several courses and a whole lotta wine. We were served yummy little
salmon tartar amuse-bouches, which I always appreciate when I'm settling
into a big meal. I picked the fois gras ($25) for my first course - it
was nothing less than perfect. Seared crisp on the top with a crab apple
jelly and liquorice oil. On the manager's suggestion I paired it with a
glass of the 2003 Brandenburg #3 from the Venturi-Schulze vineyard on
Vancouver Island. A sweet and rich wine it was a great match. Ryan
started with a trio of Gaspacho ($9), one consommé, one yellow tomato
with avocado and a fire roasted tomato. A simple starter, the trio
worked well as a series. On my suggestion, Ryan paired with the Zanatta
Damasco, another Vancouver Island wine.
For my main I had fresh argula paparadelle, with
lobster and truffle beurre blanc. First off, I really
enjoyed eating lobster without having to deal with the shell, but more
importantly it all tasted (and looked) great. Everything was super fresh
and the flavours were light without being heavy. The server's pick - I
had a Hinne Valley Chardonnay with it. Ryan had the beef tenderloin
(cooked exactly medium rare, as requested), with fingerling potatoes,
caperberry and chorizo salad, and port syrup. I thought it was a bit
tart, but Ryan was, "loving it." Also the server's pick, Ryan had the Mt
Boucherie Syrah.
I skipped dessert and ordered a
port for dessert. They didn't have what I wanted, but offered me a nice
substitute; that said and to be honest, I was a bit tipsy and forgot to
write down the precise name. It was great though. Ryan had another
'trio,' this time dessert ($11) - a burnt lemon tart, espresso cake and
plum tarte tatin. He seemed very happy with it and since I had to taste
to too, I can concur.
The Rosemeade is the kind of restaurant that
reminds you of how mediocre other restaurants can be. The food quality
was extremely high and the menu thoughtfully prepared with an ample
amount of culinary creativity. The staff appeared to take a similar
level of enthusiasm with regard to service.
The atmosphere is above and beyond what you can
expect in Victoria. A casual blend of Olde England
and boutique hotel - has that distinctively modern European feel.
I hate to be cliché (but
sometimes it's called for and the Rosemeade is in deepest Esquimalt),
the Rosemeade is a hidden treasure.
Value
of Food: 95/100
Quality of Food: 98/100
Service: 97/10
Ambiance: 95/10
Wine List: 97/10 (more
important than the list, is the interactive nature of wine experience -
great wine service)
Reviewed: August 11 2005
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