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Wild Saffron makes approachable and highly flavoured food.
While good tasting, I did hesitate to think that the approach to the
main dishes was over the top. Something like a kid high on sugar at a
birthday party, the seasoning and food combination over stimulated my
palate and I was largely unable to enjoy the independent components of
the dishes. The food was good and there are greater food crimes
than this, but I did feel sad for my poor sablefish who was getting
assaulted by a mass of other flavours.
The menus that Wild Saffron are featuring for Dine Around are
identical apart from the mains. My dinner guest Ryan, went for the lower
priced option with salmon. Much like my dish, I thought the flavours
were a bit overwhelming. The quinoa base, was interesting, but
overpowered the fish. Similarly, the scallop accompaniment, seemed lost.
The highly seasoned lentil crust, was more like a paste and would have
been better if it was milder and crispier.
So about my sad sablefish. I liked all the components of the dish in
theory and in practice when I was able to identify them. The lobster and
fennel preserve salad, was light and nice, but was quickly toppled by
the rest of the dish. The mushroom barley risotto was yummy too, but in
combination with everything else served to make the dish heavy. The sui
choy and the mango chutney drizzle, I feel, were the main culprits to
assault that occurred on my fish. The sui choy, a wonderful vegetable,
is simply to strongly flavoured for fish and the mango drizzle, way to
sweet.
You can tell that they've put a lot of effort into these dishes. I
respect their commitment to serving interesting food as part of the Dine
Around menu. The first course prawn and lobster bisque was nice and
simple and the desserts, interesting and thoughtfully prepared. Despite
my criticism, these are good menus, executed well - just a bit busy with
reference to style and method.
Wild Saffron is a comfortable place to dine. The lounge like
atmosphere has a fairly informal effect, that suits a variety of diners.
All of the Swan's beer menu is available in the restaurant, as well as
good selection of reasonably priced wines by the glass and the bottle.
Showy wines are not part of their mandate, nothing is fantastically
expensive and everything is relatively familiar, without being entirely
ho-hum.
The service on this night, was a little unusual. I couldn't quite peg
the personality of our server and his timing was a little off. A
legitimate complaint and likely a symptom of Dine Around - being asked
for my dessert order before I've eaten the appetizer. If it's not a
soufflé, then I don't think this is proper etiquette. Sure, it saves the
server time, but it's not about the server. Generally,
however he was friendly and the service competent.
$25 Set
Menu
Appetizer:
Prawn and Lobster Bisque with Roast Shallot Crostini
Or
Mixed Winter Greens and Smoked Tomato Vinaigrette
Entree:
Lamb Osso Bucco
-pancetta-yukon potato mash, julienne winter vegetables and
natural braising juices
Or
Lentil Crusted Salmon Filet
-seared chipotle scallop, mango-quinoa salad and citrus oil
Dessert:
Dark Chocolate Espresso Torte
-with grilled orange marmalade and caramel creme anglaise
Or
Pernod Panettone
-with spiced apple ice cream and cocoa shortbread
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$35 Set Menu
Appetizer:
Prawn and Lobster Bisque with Roast Shallot Crostini
Or
Mixed Winter Greens and Smoked Tomato Vinaigrette
Entree:
Smoked Tomato Marinated Beef Tenderloin
-lemon-oregano braised potatoes, petit proscuitto and candied
onion salad and shallot jus
Or
Pink Peppercorn Seared Sablefish Filet
-lobster and fennel preserve salad, sesame grilled sui choy,
wild mushroom barley risotto and mango chutney drizzle
Dessert:
Dark Chocolate Espresso Torte
-with grilled orange marmalade and caramel creme anglaise
Or
Pernod Panettone
-with spiced apple ice cream and cocoa shortbread
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Value of Food: 78/100 (The two menus were too
similar to justify a $10 price difference, they should offered a
flashier appetizer with the higher priced menu)
Quality of Food: 81/100
Service: 70/100
Ambiance: 73/100
Wine and beer list: 75/100
Reviewed:
February 18, 2006
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